Dear Gardening Friends:

The spring season started off like gangbusters and then the heat hit.  This past week we had the incredible high of 104.  The promising beginning of the growing season disappeared as we all sought relief from the heat.  I still haven't finished planting my gardens.  Who wants to go outside in the weather we have recently experienced. Hopefully the end to this unseasonable heat will be soon.  As I write this, John is once again in the hospital with a repeat of the bacterial infection that laid him low in April.  Evidently, not all of the germs were killed as thought.  We are waiting for word of the next step to be taken in this fight and look forward to his recovery and return. 

Feed the Birds

This past fall I hung out my first bird feeder, then the second, third, fourth etc. I spent the winter in my office and to rest my eyes from the computer screen, I would look out the window and watch the birds clustering around the feeders.  Next I had to buy a Colorado identification guide to birds.  Next I bought different kinds of birdseed to attract different bird varieties.  Then came suet feeders, unsalted unshelled peanuts, birdbaths, thistle socks, and hummingbird feeders.  I have discovered what many of you already know; there is a quiet enjoyment in sitting in your own yard listening to the chirping of birds and watching their behavior around the feeders.  Our current resident favorite is the goldfinch and lesser goldfinch who feeds quite close to our office porch.  To sit outside at the end of the day with a glass of wine, a cold beer, or a lemonade (your choice) and watch these beautiful golden birds at the feeder seems to take all the stress out of the day.  While I don’t believe I will become an avid bird watcher, traveling the world to catch a glimpse of some rare species or even traveling to Nebraska to see the layover of the Whooping Cranes, I have become an avid bird enjoyer.  With this in mind, I purchased a book called Colorado Wildscapes (Bring Conservation Home) by the Audubon Society.  The rational for the purchase of this book was that it is about gardening and specific to Colorado.  It features 13 gardens representing different areas of Colorado with the descriptions of the plants used to attract birds to the gardens.  Even more interesting than the gardens and plant recommendations in this book are some food for thought items.  Most of us are aware of how the rapid growth in Colorado has changed the landscape that once was home to a large diversity of wildlife.  Our small yard represents our refuge from our daily stress but not necessarily does it represent the habitats it replaced.  The book asks the question “What if we saw them (our yards) not as places that separate us from the surrounding world but as special landscapes that actually connect us to the rest of nature....?”  The book goes on to say “Any individual yard or garden may seem relatively insignificant as a wildlife habitat, but according to the EPA, residential lawns cover some 20 million acres in the United States.  Imagine if all of those yards were transformed into small habitat patches.  The additional wildlife habitat would be comparable to increasing the area of the entire National Wildlife Refuge system by twenty percent. ”The book makes a point that what is good for birds, butterflies and other wildlife tends to be good for people also, as well as creating endless opportunities for every member of the family to enjoy and learn about nature. The book emphasizes being water wise as well as being in tune with your local environment.  I have enjoyed watching the birds and after reading this book, I want to do more to encourage even more birds to our gardens.  Perhaps you might enjoy this also.

 

PLANTING TREES

This information is a compilation of facts from CSU Cooperative Extension - Horticulture #7.833 Step 1 - Check the Depth of

Tree in Root Ball  In the landscape, more trees are killed by planting too deep.  When trees are planted too deep, root growth

will be slowed or halted by lower levels of soil oxygen. They fail to establish and simply decline over time.  On landscapes with poorly drained soils (common in many soils around Colorado) there may be a need to raise structural roots slightly. Thus the planting hole depth should be 2 to 4 inches less than the height of the root ball (depending on the root ball size). If the hole is dug too deep, refill to proper depth and pack the soil. Step 2 - Dig Saucer-shaped Hole three times the root ball diameter.   To support rapid root regeneration, research suggests a wide saucer-shaped planting hole. Sloped sides direct roots to continue to grow towards the higher oxygen soil near the surface rather than being trapped in the planting hole. Roots that do penetrate the site soil will grow more slowly. Planting hole width is the key to promoting rapid root growth and reducing post-planting stress. On extremely compacted soils, it may help to rototill a ring around the backfill area to a width of 4 to 5 times, or more, the root ball diameter. This should be done after planting is completed so the soil is not recompacted by foot traffic in the planting process.  Step 3 - Set Tree in Place Considerations in setting the tree in place include:  If the tree has a crook at the graft union, the inside turn should go to the north to avoid winter bark injury. Vertically align the tree with the top centered over the root ball. Due to curves along the trunk, the trunk may not necessarily look straight   Other considerations in tree orientation include:  - View - Lowest branches away from sidewalk/street - Most branches into the prevailing winds - Most branches into the shady side.Step 4 - Pack Around Base Once the tree is situated, the wide planting hole allows an extra step to stabilize the tree. Firm a small ring of backfill soil around the base of the root ball. Step 5 - Remove Root Ball Wrapping Remove some of the wraping.  An advantage of the wider planting hole is that it gives room for the planter to remove root ball wrappings AFTER the tree is placed in the hole.  Based on research, standard procedures are to remove root ball wrapping materials (burlap, fabric, grow bags, twine, ties, wire basket, etc.) from the upper 12 inches or two-thirds of the root ball, whichever is greater AFTER the tree is set in place.  Materials under the root ball are not a concern since roots grow outward, not downward.  Step 6 - Check for Potential Girdling Roots  With the root ball now exposed, check for roots circling the root ball. Cut all circling roots. If the root ball has a lot of circling roots, it is standard procedure to simply run a knife down the edge of the root ball on all four sides, cutting the circling roots. Any roots that have been sticking outside of the wrapping materials are desiccated and should be cut off. Step 7 - Backfill  No backfill soil should go on top of the root ball.  In preparing any soil for planting, it is standard gardening procedure to modify the soil structure (i.e., loosen the soil) by cultivating. It is also routine to amend the soil by adding organic matter to improve water-holding capacity of sandy soils or to increase large pore space in clayey soils.  Arborists are divided on the benefits and needs of amending the backfill soil.  In amending the soil, the organic matter needs to be thoroughly mixed with the backfill soil. Never backfill with organic matter in layers or clumps as this creates additional texture interface lines. Amendments should be well aged. Never use fresh, unfinished compost or fresh manure as it may burn tender roots.  Don't tamp the soil with your feet. Step 8 - Staking or Underground Stabilization (if needed) Staking became a routine procedure when trees were planted in deep holes and the trees sunk and tilted as the soil settled.  When trees are set on undisturbed soil and a ring of soIl is firmed around the base before backfilling, staking is not needed in many landscape settings. Don't stake small trees or those not in the wind's path. Rigid staking of a tree is counterproductive; research shows trees don't develop normally if they're not allowed any sway. Step 9 - Watering to Settle Soil Watering is a tool to settle the soil without overly packing it.  Step 10 - Final Grade In the wider planting hole, the backfill soil may settle a little in watering. Final grading may be needed after watering. Step 11 - Mulching A mulch ring of bark/wood chips is suggested around all trees to help protect the trunks from lawnmower damage. On newly planted trees, an organic mulch can increase fine root development by 400 percent compared to grass competition. This results in 20 percent faster top growth.  Standard mulch depth over the root ball is 1 to 2 inches. Never place mulch up against the trunk. Over the backfill area and beyond, 3 to 4 inches of mulch will give better weed control.

 

Post-planting Care It is impossible to precisely predict the irrigation needs of newly planted trees. Soil could be dry in the root

ball and wet in the backfill OR soils could be waterlogged in the root ball and dry in the backfill soil. If the tree is planted in a

newly sodded/seeded irrigated lawn, it is often over-watered. A rough estimate of water to apply to the root ball of newly planted trees is 4 to 10 gallons total per week. Since the root ball is prone to drying out, newly planted trees may need frequent watering. However, in compacted clayey soil with poor drainage, it’s common for the planting pit to become a saucer holding excess water. Check the soil moisture often. Dig with a trowel on the edge of the planting area. Soil that feels moist and holds together when squeezed doesn't need water. Overwatering drives air from the soil, causing root suffocation. Frequent, light watering

promotes shallow root development. To protect tender bark of deciduous trees from winter injury, trunk wrap may be used during the winter season. Use crepe paper or other wraps on your deciduous tree trunks about Thanksgiving time; remove the wraps around Easter. Do this for the first 2 to 3 seasons.  During the establishment phase, fertilization should be minimal. High nitrogen rates push canopy growth at the expense of root growth. Never fertilize trees in the establishment phase that are showing signs of stress. During the establishment phase, primary growth occurs in the root system with minimal growth in the canopy.

 

Using Mycorrhizae - The mycorrhizae create filaments or threads that act like an extension of the root system—enlarging the

surface-absorbing area of the roots by 100 to 1,000 times. This makes the roots of the plant much more effective in the uptake of nutrients and water. In exchange, the fungus receives essential sugars and compounds from the roots to fuel its own growth.  This symbiotic relationship can significantly improve root growth, nutrient absorption (specifically phosphorus and iron) and general plant growth. With a more efficient rooting system, the plant becomes more proficient in water uptake giving the plant more resilience to drought and increased hardiness in dry weather. It enhances the plant’s own ability to tolerate nvironmental stress and reduces post-planting stress (transplant shock). Plants with mycorrhizae may need less fertilizer and may have fewer soil-born diseases

Forest Pansy Redbud, Milky Way Dogwood, Two Trees for Transplanted Easteners The Pansy redbud retains all the admirable traits of its more common brethren, but with the addition of red-to-purple leaves. They emerge looking like glossy lollipops in spring and slowly darken, adding mottled green as the season progresses. Its flowers are more a true pink than the regular redbud, making it easier to pair in the garden. We like to plant one Forest Pansy with a group of dogwoods. Milky Way Select Dogwood  is an outstanding selection of Chinese Kousa Dogwood. This cultivar is notable for rich, dark green foliage and a prolific crop of white flowers that are borne in June. Composed of four creamy white bracts, they are followed in late summer by bright orange red fruits. These complement the deep red and orange to scarlet fall foliage and remain well after leaf drop to provide an extra display of seasonal color. Milky Way Select Dogwood grows in a rounded to widely vase shaped form to a height and spread of about 20 feet. Hardiness is USDA 4.

 

Vanderwolf Pine

(Pinus flexilis Vanderwolfs Pyramid’) Fantastic pine that does well in Colorado. Distinctive, pyramid shaped pine with long, twisted, silvery, blue-green needles displayed on dense branches. A superior selection for lawn specimen, accent tree or windbreak. Resistant to insects and disease. Fairly deer resistant and has long green-blue needles that are soft. Full sun to part shade. Low to moderate water needs. Will grow to 20-25' tall and 8-10' wide.

SHRUB ROSES

The hybrid tea rose has always been (and probably will continue to be) the top selling rose.  For those of you who are too busy or do not have the inclination to take care of these high maintenance roses, please consider the shrub rose for your garden.  Shrub roses and old garden roses are gaining national popularity as gardeners realize the excellent floral quality, good disease tolerance, and winter hardiness of these plants. By planting shrub roses, pesticide usage can be minimized and some labor intensive jobs eliminated, such as protecting roses from low winter temperatures.  A group of winter-hardy roses that perform well in Colorado’s climate are the Explorer and Parkland series. These rose cultivars are offered from Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Horticulture Research and Development Center. They are hardy down to –35 degrees C without winter protection other than snow. The roses are disease resistant, flower repeatedly throughout summer and require minimal pruning. Best of all, they come in a wide range of colors and shrub size. Shrub roses are hardy and can grow at higher altitudes.  Shrub roses are a wonderful addition to the landscape. They are just as easy to grow as a lilac bush.